A) Dry paper towels B) Gravel C) Coconut fiber or peat moss D) Sand
A) Distilled water B) Tap water straight from the faucet C) Dechlorinated tap water or spring water D) Salt water
A) 80-90°F (27-32°C) B) 40-50°F (4-10°C) C) 60-70°F (15-21°C) D) 90-100°F (32-38°C)
A) Dog food B) Fruits and vegetables C) Fish flakes D) Live insects (crickets, mealworms)
A) They are immune to all skin damage. B) Handling makes them grow faster. C) Their skin is very sensitive and can absorb oils and toxins. D) They enjoy being handled.
A) They only live on land. B) They only live in water. C) They can live in both water and on land. D) They can fly.
A) Keeping the enclosure completely dry B) Using a heat lamp C) Regular misting with dechlorinated water D) Placing a dehumidifier near the enclosure
A) Black lights B) Bright, direct sunlight C) High-intensity heat lamps D) Low-level UVB lighting (for some species), or no special lighting.
A) Because salamanders like to be alone. B) To help them adjust to the new environment more quickly. C) To prevent the spread of diseases or parasites. D) Quarantine isn't necessary.
A) Increased shedding B) Increased activity and enthusiasm C) Brightening of colors D) Loss of appetite and lethargy
A) Hides are unnecessary. B) To help the salamander grow faster. C) To make the enclosure look nicer. D) To provide a safe and secure place for the salamander to retreat.
A) Spot clean daily and full clean every 1-2 weeks. B) Never C) Once a year D) Once a month
A) A mesh bag B) A dry cardboard box C) A glass jar filled with water D) A plastic container with damp paper towels.
A) Fleas B) Mosquitoes C) Ticks D) Roundworms
A) Wait and see if it gets better on its own. B) Consult a veterinarian specializing in reptiles and amphibians. C) Release it into the wild. D) Give it over-the-counter medication for humans.
A) Hibernation B) The transformation from a larval aquatic form to a terrestrial or semi-aquatic adult form. C) Egg laying D) Shedding skin
A) All salamanders have the same care requirements. B) Research is unnecessary. C) Different species have different temperature, humidity, and dietary requirements. D) Salamanders don't need special care.
A) Shiny skin B) Increased appetite C) Wrinkled skin D) Increased activity
A) Only through their nose. B) Only through their lungs. C) Only through their gills. D) Through their skin, gills (in larvae and some adults), and lungs (in some adults).
A) To keep the enclosure cold B) To provide entertainment. C) They do not need water dishes. D) To maintain hydration and humidity.
A) Bleach B) Vinegar C) Pet safe enclosure cleaner D) Harsh chemicals and strong detergents
A) Bathing them frequently B) Playing loud music C) Adding new hiding spots or rearranging the enclosure. D) Placing a mirror in the enclosure
A) Leave it for them to eat later. B) Bury it in the substrate. C) Remove it promptly to prevent mold and bacteria growth. D) It is good to leave it.
A) They are not sold. B) From the wild. C) From an illegal seller. D) From a reputable breeder or rescue organization.
A) Over handling. B) Eating too much. C) Poor water quality or unsanitary enclosure conditions. D) Exposure to sunlight.
A) They are most active during the day. B) They never move. C) They are active only in the spring. D) They are most active at night.
A) Wash your hands never. B) Wear gloves and a mask. C) Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling. D) Wear insect repellent.
A) Is always hot. B) Is always cold. C) Regulates its own body temperature. D) Relies on external sources for body temperature regulation.
A) Quarantine the new salamander for several weeks. B) Introduce them immediately. C) Exchange substrate between their containers. D) House them together in a small container first.
A) Pelleted food for reptiles B) Large crickets C) Powdered sugar D) Small live foods such as daphnia or brine shrimp |