A) Gravel B) Sand C) Dry paper towels D) Coconut fiber or peat moss
A) Dechlorinated tap water or spring water B) Tap water straight from the faucet C) Distilled water D) Salt water
A) 80-90°F (27-32°C) B) 90-100°F (32-38°C) C) 40-50°F (4-10°C) D) 60-70°F (15-21°C)
A) Fruits and vegetables B) Fish flakes C) Dog food D) Live insects (crickets, mealworms)
A) They are immune to all skin damage. B) Handling makes them grow faster. C) They enjoy being handled. D) Their skin is very sensitive and can absorb oils and toxins.
A) They can fly. B) They only live in water. C) They can live in both water and on land. D) They only live on land.
A) Placing a dehumidifier near the enclosure B) Using a heat lamp C) Keeping the enclosure completely dry D) Regular misting with dechlorinated water
A) Bright, direct sunlight B) Low-level UVB lighting (for some species), or no special lighting. C) Black lights D) High-intensity heat lamps
A) To prevent the spread of diseases or parasites. B) Quarantine isn't necessary. C) Because salamanders like to be alone. D) To help them adjust to the new environment more quickly.
A) Increased shedding B) Increased activity and enthusiasm C) Loss of appetite and lethargy D) Brightening of colors
A) To help the salamander grow faster. B) To make the enclosure look nicer. C) Hides are unnecessary. D) To provide a safe and secure place for the salamander to retreat.
A) Spot clean daily and full clean every 1-2 weeks. B) Once a month C) Never D) Once a year
A) A glass jar filled with water B) A mesh bag C) A dry cardboard box D) A plastic container with damp paper towels.
A) Ticks B) Mosquitoes C) Fleas D) Roundworms
A) Consult a veterinarian specializing in reptiles and amphibians. B) Release it into the wild. C) Wait and see if it gets better on its own. D) Give it over-the-counter medication for humans.
A) Shedding skin B) The transformation from a larval aquatic form to a terrestrial or semi-aquatic adult form. C) Hibernation D) Egg laying
A) Research is unnecessary. B) All salamanders have the same care requirements. C) Different species have different temperature, humidity, and dietary requirements. D) Salamanders don't need special care.
A) Wrinkled skin B) Increased activity C) Increased appetite D) Shiny skin
A) Only through their nose. B) Through their skin, gills (in larvae and some adults), and lungs (in some adults). C) Only through their gills. D) Only through their lungs.
A) They do not need water dishes. B) To maintain hydration and humidity. C) To provide entertainment. D) To keep the enclosure cold
A) Vinegar B) Harsh chemicals and strong detergents C) Bleach D) Pet safe enclosure cleaner
A) Playing loud music B) Placing a mirror in the enclosure C) Bathing them frequently D) Adding new hiding spots or rearranging the enclosure.
A) Remove it promptly to prevent mold and bacteria growth. B) Bury it in the substrate. C) It is good to leave it. D) Leave it for them to eat later.
A) From a reputable breeder or rescue organization. B) They are not sold. C) From an illegal seller. D) From the wild.
A) Eating too much. B) Poor water quality or unsanitary enclosure conditions. C) Exposure to sunlight. D) Over handling.
A) They never move. B) They are active only in the spring. C) They are most active during the day. D) They are most active at night.
A) Wear insect repellent. B) Wear gloves and a mask. C) Wash your hands never. D) Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling.
A) Is always cold. B) Relies on external sources for body temperature regulation. C) Is always hot. D) Regulates its own body temperature.
A) House them together in a small container first. B) Exchange substrate between their containers. C) Quarantine the new salamander for several weeks. D) Introduce them immediately.
A) Pelleted food for reptiles B) Small live foods such as daphnia or brine shrimp C) Large crickets D) Powdered sugar |