A) 40 gallons B) 10 gallons C) 5 gallons D) 20 gallons
A) Surface dwellers B) Bottom dwellers C) Mid-water swimmers D) Plant eaters
A) Sand B) Sharp gravel C) Large pebbles D) Crushed coral
A) 88-95°F (31-35°C) B) 75-86°F (24-30°C) C) 65-70°F (18-21°C) D) 50-60°F (10-15°C)
A) 3 B) 1 C) 5 or more D) 2
A) Loachy dances B) Hiding constantly C) Floating at the surface D) Aggression towards tankmates
A) Omnivorous, with a preference for meaty foods B) Herbivorous C) Strictly vegetarian D) Detritus only
A) They are resistant to diseases B) They can tolerate fluctuating pH levels C) They are sensitive to poor water conditions D) They thrive in high nitrate levels
A) Ich (White Spot Disease) B) Fin Rot C) Dropsy D) Swim Bladder Disorder
A) Plenty of hiding places B) Bright lighting C) Open swimming space D) Strong currents
A) Dwarf Loach B) Yoyo Loach C) Kuhli Loach D) Clown Loach
A) Only chemical filtration B) Sufficient biological and mechanical filtration C) Minimal filtration D) No filtration needed
A) To acclimate them to the tank temperature B) To observe them for diseases C) To feed them a special diet D) To prevent them from hiding
A) 6.0-7.5 B) 9.0-9.5 C) 5.0-5.5 D) 8.0-8.5
A) Scatter food throughout the tank B) Never feed them live food C) Overfeed them to ensure they get enough D) Feed them once a day in one spot
A) Add more loaches to the tank B) Assume they are naturally shy C) Turn off the tank lights D) Check water parameters and look for signs of illness
A) Small tetras B) Peaceful community fish C) Aggressive, fin-nipping fish D) Corydoras catfish
A) Loaches are sensitive to some medications B) All medications are safe for loaches C) Medications are never needed for loaches D) Loaches require higher doses of medication
A) Adds harmful chemicals to the water B) Increases the pH C) Provides hiding places and releases beneficial tannins D) Makes the water harder
A) Every few months B) Never, if the tank is well-established C) Only when the water looks dirty D) Regularly, about 25-50% weekly
A) To block out light B) To prevent them from jumping out C) To keep the water warm D) Loaches don't jump, so it is not necessary
A) Clown Loach B) Yoyo Loach C) Kuhli Loach D) Dwarf Loach
A) Drip acclimation B) Adding them with a net C) Floating the bag for a few minutes D) Simply releasing them into the tank
A) UV lighting B) Very bright lighting C) Moderate lighting D) No lighting at all
A) Copper is toxic to loaches B) Copper is a necessary nutrient for loaches C) Copper enhances their coloration D) Copper makes the water clearer
A) They are cleaning themselves B) It is a normal behavior C) They are playing D) They may have parasites
A) Buy them without checking their condition B) Choose the most colorful ones C) Ensure they are active and healthy D) Buy the smallest ones available
A) Flake food only B) No supplemental food needed C) Vegetable matter only D) Sinking pellets and frozen foods
A) To make the water clearer B) To prevent stress and disease C) To encourage breeding D) Temperature fluctuations don't affect loaches
A) Constant swimming at the surface B) Brighter coloration C) Loss of appetite D) Increased activity |