A) Sand B) Dry paper towels C) Coconut fiber or peat moss D) Gravel
A) Distilled water B) Tap water straight from the faucet C) Dechlorinated tap water or spring water D) Salt water
A) 80-90°F (27-32°C) B) 60-70°F (15-21°C) C) 90-100°F (32-38°C) D) 40-50°F (4-10°C)
A) Live insects (crickets, mealworms) B) Dog food C) Fruits and vegetables D) Fish flakes
A) Handling makes them grow faster. B) They are immune to all skin damage. C) They enjoy being handled. D) Their skin is very sensitive and can absorb oils and toxins.
A) They can live in both water and on land. B) They can fly. C) They only live in water. D) They only live on land.
A) Regular misting with dechlorinated water B) Keeping the enclosure completely dry C) Placing a dehumidifier near the enclosure D) Using a heat lamp
A) Black lights B) High-intensity heat lamps C) Bright, direct sunlight D) Low-level UVB lighting (for some species), or no special lighting.
A) To prevent the spread of diseases or parasites. B) Quarantine isn't necessary. C) Because salamanders like to be alone. D) To help them adjust to the new environment more quickly.
A) Increased activity and enthusiasm B) Loss of appetite and lethargy C) Brightening of colors D) Increased shedding
A) To help the salamander grow faster. B) Hides are unnecessary. C) To make the enclosure look nicer. D) To provide a safe and secure place for the salamander to retreat.
A) Never B) Once a year C) Once a month D) Spot clean daily and full clean every 1-2 weeks.
A) A plastic container with damp paper towels. B) A glass jar filled with water C) A mesh bag D) A dry cardboard box
A) Roundworms B) Fleas C) Mosquitoes D) Ticks
A) Give it over-the-counter medication for humans. B) Consult a veterinarian specializing in reptiles and amphibians. C) Wait and see if it gets better on its own. D) Release it into the wild.
A) The transformation from a larval aquatic form to a terrestrial or semi-aquatic adult form. B) Egg laying C) Hibernation D) Shedding skin
A) Research is unnecessary. B) All salamanders have the same care requirements. C) Different species have different temperature, humidity, and dietary requirements. D) Salamanders don't need special care.
A) Increased appetite B) Increased activity C) Shiny skin D) Wrinkled skin
A) Through their skin, gills (in larvae and some adults), and lungs (in some adults). B) Only through their gills. C) Only through their lungs. D) Only through their nose.
A) To keep the enclosure cold B) To maintain hydration and humidity. C) They do not need water dishes. D) To provide entertainment.
A) Vinegar B) Harsh chemicals and strong detergents C) Bleach D) Pet safe enclosure cleaner
A) Placing a mirror in the enclosure B) Adding new hiding spots or rearranging the enclosure. C) Bathing them frequently D) Playing loud music
A) Bury it in the substrate. B) Leave it for them to eat later. C) Remove it promptly to prevent mold and bacteria growth. D) It is good to leave it.
A) From an illegal seller. B) From a reputable breeder or rescue organization. C) They are not sold. D) From the wild.
A) Exposure to sunlight. B) Over handling. C) Poor water quality or unsanitary enclosure conditions. D) Eating too much.
A) They never move. B) They are most active during the day. C) They are active only in the spring. D) They are most active at night.
A) Wear insect repellent. B) Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling. C) Wear gloves and a mask. D) Wash your hands never.
A) Relies on external sources for body temperature regulation. B) Is always cold. C) Regulates its own body temperature. D) Is always hot.
A) Introduce them immediately. B) Exchange substrate between their containers. C) House them together in a small container first. D) Quarantine the new salamander for several weeks.
A) Small live foods such as daphnia or brine shrimp B) Pelleted food for reptiles C) Large crickets D) Powdered sugar |