A) Sand B) Gravel C) Dry paper towels D) Coconut fiber or peat moss
A) Dechlorinated tap water or spring water B) Distilled water C) Salt water D) Tap water straight from the faucet
A) 80-90°F (27-32°C) B) 90-100°F (32-38°C) C) 40-50°F (4-10°C) D) 60-70°F (15-21°C)
A) Fruits and vegetables B) Fish flakes C) Dog food D) Live insects (crickets, mealworms)
A) They enjoy being handled. B) Their skin is very sensitive and can absorb oils and toxins. C) Handling makes them grow faster. D) They are immune to all skin damage.
A) They can live in both water and on land. B) They can fly. C) They only live on land. D) They only live in water.
A) Regular misting with dechlorinated water B) Keeping the enclosure completely dry C) Placing a dehumidifier near the enclosure D) Using a heat lamp
A) Black lights B) Low-level UVB lighting (for some species), or no special lighting. C) Bright, direct sunlight D) High-intensity heat lamps
A) To help them adjust to the new environment more quickly. B) To prevent the spread of diseases or parasites. C) Because salamanders like to be alone. D) Quarantine isn't necessary.
A) Increased shedding B) Brightening of colors C) Increased activity and enthusiasm D) Loss of appetite and lethargy
A) To make the enclosure look nicer. B) To provide a safe and secure place for the salamander to retreat. C) Hides are unnecessary. D) To help the salamander grow faster.
A) Once a year B) Never C) Once a month D) Spot clean daily and full clean every 1-2 weeks.
A) A plastic container with damp paper towels. B) A mesh bag C) A glass jar filled with water D) A dry cardboard box
A) Mosquitoes B) Ticks C) Fleas D) Roundworms
A) Wait and see if it gets better on its own. B) Consult a veterinarian specializing in reptiles and amphibians. C) Release it into the wild. D) Give it over-the-counter medication for humans.
A) The transformation from a larval aquatic form to a terrestrial or semi-aquatic adult form. B) Egg laying C) Hibernation D) Shedding skin
A) Salamanders don't need special care. B) All salamanders have the same care requirements. C) Different species have different temperature, humidity, and dietary requirements. D) Research is unnecessary.
A) Increased appetite B) Wrinkled skin C) Shiny skin D) Increased activity
A) Only through their lungs. B) Only through their gills. C) Only through their nose. D) Through their skin, gills (in larvae and some adults), and lungs (in some adults).
A) To provide entertainment. B) They do not need water dishes. C) To keep the enclosure cold D) To maintain hydration and humidity.
A) Bleach B) Vinegar C) Pet safe enclosure cleaner D) Harsh chemicals and strong detergents
A) Placing a mirror in the enclosure B) Playing loud music C) Bathing them frequently D) Adding new hiding spots or rearranging the enclosure.
A) Remove it promptly to prevent mold and bacteria growth. B) It is good to leave it. C) Leave it for them to eat later. D) Bury it in the substrate.
A) From a reputable breeder or rescue organization. B) They are not sold. C) From the wild. D) From an illegal seller.
A) Over handling. B) Eating too much. C) Poor water quality or unsanitary enclosure conditions. D) Exposure to sunlight.
A) They never move. B) They are active only in the spring. C) They are most active at night. D) They are most active during the day.
A) Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling. B) Wear insect repellent. C) Wash your hands never. D) Wear gloves and a mask.
A) Regulates its own body temperature. B) Is always hot. C) Relies on external sources for body temperature regulation. D) Is always cold.
A) Introduce them immediately. B) House them together in a small container first. C) Quarantine the new salamander for several weeks. D) Exchange substrate between their containers.
A) Pelleted food for reptiles B) Large crickets C) Small live foods such as daphnia or brine shrimp D) Powdered sugar |